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The Science of Microneedling: How Tiny Needles Unlock Big Skin Benefits

In the world of skincare, it can feel like you're constantly choosing between harsh chemicals or expensive treatments that don’t feel natural. But what if there was a way to get glowing, youthful skin—just by activating your body’s natural healing power?

Dr. Stephanie is a huge advocate of microneedling. She has many years of experience, having carried out 1000’s of treatments since the invention of the DermaRoller in the early 2000's!!!

We offer several different types of microneedling at Orchard House in Northallerton, depending on your individual skin concerns.

Each treatment can be boosted using your own growth factors (PRP/iPRF), a bespoke mesotherapy cocktail, exosomes or polynucleotides! 

Why do we love this treatment? It WORKS! Let’s delve into the science behind microneedling and uncover the benefits backed by clinical research...

skinpen in action

What Is Microneedling?

Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, involves using a device with tiny, sterile needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin. These microscopic punctures trigger the body's natural healing process—stimulating collagen and elastin production.

The process might sound intense, but using a sterile precision mechanical device, such as SkinPen or the XCelllaris Pro Twist,  the damage is controlled and minimal. 

The skin responds by regenerating itself, becoming firmer, smoother, and more resilient over time.

The Science: How Microneedling Works

Microneedling activates the wound healing cascade, a complex biological process with three key phases:

  1. Inflammation (0–48 hours)
    The skin reacts to the micro-injuries by increasing blood flow and immune activity. Platelets release growth factors like TGF-β, PDGF, and VEGF, which recruit fibroblasts and initiate healing.
  2. Proliferation (2–5 days)
    Fibroblasts begin producing new collagen (mainly type III initially), elastin, and extracellular matrix. Keratinocytes migrate to the surface, improving skin texture and tone.
  3. Remodelling (5 days to several months) Collagen is reorganised and strengthened (mainly into type I collagen), improving skin structure and elasticity. This phase can continue for months after treatment.

Proven Benefits of Microneedling - supported by scientific studies:

1. Improves Fine Lines and Wrinkles 

By stimulating collagen and elastin production, microneedling can significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

A 2008 study in the International Journal of Dermatology showed that patients treated with microneedling experienced a 400% increase in collagen and elastin six months after a single treatment.

2. Reduces Acne Scars 

Microneedling is especially effective for atrophic acne scars—the indented scars caused by tissue loss.

A 2015 study in the Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery found microneedling to be a safe and effective treatment for acne scars, with significant improvement after just three sessions.

3. Enhances Topical Product Absorption

The microchannels created by microneedling temporarily increase skin permeability, allowing for deeper penetration of serums, growth factors (such as iPRF/PRP) or vitamins. This can amplify the effects of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and peptides.

4. Minimises Pore Size

Though microneedling doesn’t directly “shrink” pores, it can reduce their appearance by increasing skin firmness around the pores.

5. Improves Skin Texture and Tone

Microneedling helps fade hyperpigmentation, melasma, and sun damage. Combined with depigmenting agents, it’s a promising option for uneven skin tone.

6. Hair Growth Stimulation (Scalp)

Microneedling has shown success in treating androgenetic alopecia (male and female pattern baldness).

• • When used with minoxidil, microneedling significantly improved hair regrowth compared to minoxidil alone, as reported in a 2013 study in the International Journal of Trichology.

microneedling skin quality results

6 months after a course of 4 microneedling sessions with Dr. Stephanie at Orchard House

xcellaris twist microneedling

Dr. Stephanie microneedling with the X-Cellaris Twist device -

which creates 150 precise micropunctures per second!!

Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Try Microneedling?

Good candidates for microneedling:

  • Individuals with acne scars, fine lines, enlarged pores, or uneven skin tone.
  • Those looking for skin rejuvenation without downtime.

Caution is advised if you have:

  • Active acne (currently debatable) or skin infections.
  • Keloid scarring history.

Professional vs. At-Home Microneedling

  • Professional treatments use longer needles (up to 4mm ), suitable for deep acne scars and wrinkles. These treatments should only be done by trained skin health specialists in a sterile clinic.
  • At-home rollers typically range from 0.2–0.5mm and are safe for surface-level treatments and enhanced product absorption—but results are more modest. Plus, by doing it yourself, it can be difficult to keep the skin sterile, apply even pressure and not ‘drag’ or tear the skin. 

What to Expect Post-Treatment

After microneedling, you can expect:

  • Mild redness (like a sunburn) for 24–72 hours.
  • Some dryness or peeling as the skin regenerates.
  • Visible improvement in 2–4 weeks, with continued enhancement over months.

Strict aftercare (hydration, sun protection, and avoiding actives like retinol or acids temporarily) is crucial for optimal healing and results.

Final thoughts?

Microneedling is much more than a beauty trend—it’s a scientifically validated method to revitalise the skin from within by stimulating your body’s natural regenerative processes. 

Instead of relying on synthetic chemicals or invasive treatments, it works by encouraging your skin to rebuild itself—making it a smart choice for those seeking effective, minimal-intervention skincare.

✨ Ready to glow naturally? ✨

Sources:

  • International Journal of Dermatology (2008), Collagen induction therapy study.
  • Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2015), Acne scarring and microneedling.
  • International Journal of Trichology (2013), Hair regrowth with microneedling.

• • NIH, Wound healing process literature.

Stephanie face microneedled

Dr. Stephanie - Straight after microneedling with SkinPen